drewtabke.com
small world, big mountains
small world, big mountains
Having seen this beautiful peak from La Parva and Farellones, I decided a ski mission was in order. Plus you get to walk up a valley called La Yerba Loca (crazy herb) so I figured it would have to be cool.
As the name promised, the environment was indeed crazy. My partner Eben Sargent and I walked about 15 miles and climb 10,800′ vertical from the trailhead to the summit of La Paloma. Our start in the low reaches of the valley had us trudging up a dusty gravel road amongst cow pastures and Saguaro-like cactus. Slowly but surely we ascended through ever-changing ecosystems, a real-time display of nature’s adaptation to its climate. Slowly but surely the cactus and tall, tough shrubs gave way to a few lone stands of pine trees, those gave way to low brush and eventually fragile sub-alpine meadows before we finally reached snowline. Miles of climbing up the snow-filled valley, getting deeper and deeper into ever-growing mountains and eventually we reached the level of the glaciers.
We slept in a stone shelter built against a huge boulder. In the Andes the wind is a force to be feared, and a shelter such as this could be the difference between life and death if the weather took a turn for the worse. Eben and I were luckily graced with perfect weather for the 2.5 days and 2 nights of the trip. When we summited on the second day, there was hardly a wisp of cloud or a breath of wind.
The descent was, lacking any other word, classic. We skied right off the 16,100′ summit, down an ever-steepening glacial headwall. The snow varied from chalk to shallow powder, but never turned to ice or breakable crust. In that environment I consider the snow we skied to be about as good as you could hope. From summit to camp it was about 6,000′ vert. We then skied another several miles down the gradually dropping floor of the valley before reaching the end of the snow and walking the remaining 3.5 miles back to the road.

La Paloma as seen from La Parva ski area.

Eben amongst the cactus, looking for glaciers.

End of the meadows, start of the snow.

The stone shelter.

Eben skinning up below La Paloma (L) and Cerro Altar (R).

Eben below some nasty, wind-hammered Chilean glacier ice.

Still climbing.

La Disputada copper mine as seen from the summit. Not an uncommon sight in the Central Andes.

Cerro Del Plomo (L, not to be confused with El Plomo) and other random 18,000' peaks rise above the Rio Olivares Valley.

Aconcagua in the distance, its terrible South Face shrouded in cloud.

Eben, dropping down the steep headwall.

Eben continues onto the next glacier.

With time to spare, we ascended another smaller nearby peak and found some interesteing high-andes conditions.

Looking back, we skied off the summit and down the left skyline.

The run went on for miles.

Back at the stone shelter, La Paloma glows in the last rays of the day.

Homeward bound, Eben puts his skis and boots back on the pack.